Jacqueline's Natural Hair Care Cafe': What's Best...Conditioners, Treatments, and Herbs

What is a HAIR CONDITIONER?

What is a HAIR TREATMENT?

What are HAIR HERBS?

Almost 40 years ago...I attended 3 International Hair Shows...while in my first year as a licensed cosmetologist. I would always make my way to the owner or the person who represented the company...to ask them about putting herbs into products....particularly the conditioners.

I was told over and over...that herbs are for eating...not for hair. Well, as you and I can see...Hair and Herbs together... changed the industry. I studied up to

40 herbs for six years (1974-1980).... After becoming a certified Herbalist... I became a Hair Treatment Specialist for hundreds of customers.

The success was huge and today I am a excited about sharing my knowledge and wisdom with you.

Let's talk about the difference between...CONDITIONERS, TREATMENTS, and HERBS.

CONDITIONERS:

HAIR CONDITIONERS

What is a " Hair Conditioner"?
Hair conditioners fall into about 6 different groups according to what you want to accomplish with your hair. People with thin hair need a specific kind of "conditioner", people with thick, dry hair need another and etc...

Conditioners 6 major categories:

Moisturizers

Are concentrated with humectants. Humectants are compounds that attract and hold moisture into the hair. They may contain botanicals or protein

Reconstructors

Normally contain protein. Hydrolyzed human hair keratin protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables the it to penetrate the hair shaft (the cortex). The main purpose of a reconstructor is to strengthen the hair

Acidifiers

The key word here is "acid". Yes, is is good to put acid on your hair. When a product carries a pH of 2.5 to 3.5 it is normally termed an acidifier. This pH will close the cuticle layer of the hair. The result is shiny, bouncy hair. This pH range will adjust the beta bonds to alpha bonds (hydrogen bonds). Acidifiers do not weigh the hair. They do create shine, and add elasticity. This category is great for people with fine textured hair.

Detanglers

Most detanglers are acidifiers (see above). Most have low pH's 2.5 to 3.5. They close the cuticle of the hair which cause tangles. Some "shield" the hair shaft with polymers (polymers are strings of "like" molecules- a chain). Some detanglers are instant, some take 1-5 minutes to work.

Thermal Protectors

Thermal protectors safeguard the hair against heat. Using thermal protectors are one of the best things you can do to your hair if you blow dry, use curling irons, or hot rollers. They normally use heat absorbing polymers that distribute the heat, so your hair does not get heat damage (a major cause of hair damage)

Glossers

For the most part glossers are cosmetic. Most Glossers contain very light oils derived from silicone. Used in small amounts they reflect light. Also, they are one of the best products to control the "frizzies."

Oils
When you have dry hair (esp. if you have chemicals on your hair color-perm-relaxer} you need to add natural, organic oisl to your hair. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFA's are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contain EFA'S). EFA's can take very dry and porous hair and transform it into soft pliable hair.

1- Essential Fatty Acids

Essential fatty acids, linoleic acid (omega 6) and alpha-linoleic acid (omega 3) are said to be ‘essential’ because our system, despite vitally needing them, cannot produce them. At the hair system level, omega 6 controls the hair’s water loss, and thus its hydration, whereas omega 3 maintain its elasticity.

It intervenes...On the hair’s growth zones

They blend into the dermic cell’s membranes that surround the hair follicle. Their role is to maintain the scalp’s skin at a proper level of hydration, and to give it elasticity and resistance. A deficiency in essential fatty acids in that zone leads to excessively dry hair, dandruff, and a forming keratin that is both under-hydrated and very vulnerable.

In the cuticle’s ceramids

The cuticle is made of decked layers of scales (picture below), linked to each other by oily substances, the ceramids. They are mainly constituted of essential fatty acids, and their action is triple:

1- CIMENT FUNCTION. They shape the substance that seal the cuticle’s scales, in the same way that cement keeps together the bricks in a wall. Thus kept together, the scales make for a smooth surface, which enables the hair to protect itself against external aggressions, and to reflect light (shine effect).2- BARRIER FUNCTION. They prevent the water that is inside the hair from fleeing.3- SPONGE FUNCTION. They can also absorb a certain quantity of water coming from the air’s humidity, in order to maintain a regular hydration of the hair stem.

HAIR TREATMENTS:

So your hair is in bad shape, its splitting or breaking off at worse or dry and frizzy, what should you be doing? Getting a treatment ....which one and why? First of all know your basic facts on what a treatment is:

Treatments are often confused with conditioners, or the term “conditioner” is used as a generalisation to categorize different types of strengthening and moisturising products. True conditioners are “surface acting in that they provide temporary protection and strength to the hair. They are a bit like a sheath, in that the product does not penetrate the hair, it provides a microscopically thin protective film giving smoothness and combability. This is different to treatments which penetrate the hair, restoring and maintaining internal strength.

Conditioners are generally used every time you shampoo...and treatments are applied when needed (no more than once a week normally).

The two types of treatments are:

Reconstructors which make the hair stronger and are generally protein based. These are for you if you have chemically damaged hair (i.e. from a perm or color) or breaking or weak hair. They are often a combination of protein and moisture as pure protein treatments used incorrectly can leave the hair brittle. After using this type of treatment don’t expect your hair to feel great as they work internally and you may still need a conditioner to make your hair feel smooth.

They are most often found at the salon and used during chemical processes.

Don’t use protein based treatments within a week either side of a color as they can cause color to fade or not ‘take’ properly.

Moisturizers are the most common type of treatment.

TREATMENTS

Balance the moisture content of the cortex (middle of your hair).

Great for frizzy, dry hair and those of you with curly hair that lacks bounce.

Will treat all damage conditions from chemical to physical (i.e. from coloring to over drying or heating your hair to sun damage).

One of my favorite products id WEN

It is a Conditioning Shampoo that does not suds- up and strip your hair. (Should-A bought stock). Cleanse the hair very well...must use it the way the instructions...tell you.

HAIR HERBS:

Did you know there are herbs for hair growth that have been proven to work for centuries? Many people assume that when they start losing their hair, there is nothing they can do, other than use man-made chemicals that are don’t seem very effective. For centuries, those practicing Chinese medicine have found that many Chinese herbs and spices assist with hair growth, allowing people to go about their lives without having to be embarrassed about their hair loss.

Best Herbs for Hair Growth

When you ask most herbalists, they will likely tell you about a variety of herbs for hair growth, some of them being well known Chinese herbs for hair growth, while others are more known to be herbs to assist in faster hair growth. No matter what you are looking for, herbal medicine can easily solve your hair growth issues. While the most well known solutions are basic hair growth solutions and thyme hair growth solutions, there are other well known herbs for hair growth, including:

Aloe Vera
Chamomile
Birch

Other herbs for healthy hair

Many other herbs may help hair loss, restore shine and combat dandruff problems. Here are some herbs that you can use in food, boil for a hair rinse or add to your normal shampoo.

Aloe: stimulates new hair growth, works against frizz, works as a natural conditioner

Birch: works against a dry scalp

Burdock: promotes hair growth, increased shine and healthy body, comabts hair loss, dandruff and itching

Chamomile: Works great as a natural conditioner

Licorice: Largely associated with preventing hair loss

Marigold: Acts as moisturizer

Mulberries: Helps treat premature gray hair

Parsley: Has doses of Iron and Vitamin C ...helps keep hair healthy and strong

Sage: Fights grays

Best Essential Oils: Herbs for Faster Hair Growth

Even though many people don’t think about it, essential oils are also a great herbal supplement for hair growth. By using a variety of oils from well known herbs, you can avoid future hair loss, as well as use herbs for faster hair growth in the form of essential oils. While herbal hair regrowth in this form may be faster, realize that a little goes a long way. The most well known essential oils herbal supplements for hair growth include:

Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Thyme
Argan

These powerful essential oils can be mixed in shampoo, or put on your head straight. Many of these herbs may even make your homemade shampoo and condition smell even better.

FINALLY...I STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU CONDITION AND TREAT YOUR HAIR BEFORE SHAMPOOING. AS STATED IN MY PREVIOUS BLOGS....WANT YOU FEED THE HAIR FIRST....IS WHAT THE HAIR FILLS UP ON...( LIKE OUR STOMACHS WHEN WE EAT FOOD). ALWAYS RINSE WELL BEFORE SHAMPOOING.....AND THEN FOLLOW WITH A LEAVE TREATMENT OR CONDITIONER.